During a podcast with Young Wildlife Photographers SA (Season 1, Episode 3), I was asked about my best birding experience. Without a doubt, it was our visit to the Eastern Highlands of Zimbabwe, a stretch of mountains spanning 250 kilometers along the Mozambican border. The altitude reaches up to 2,500 meters in certain areas, causing a significant drop in temperature compared to the surrounding lowlands. Combined with higher rainfall, this region is characterized by a mosaic of Afromontane forests and montane grasslands, setting it apart from the rest of the country. The isolated mountain range is home to many endemic and localized bird species, some of which are found nowhere else!
The most well-known birding destinations in the region include the Honde Valley, Vumba, Nyanga, and Chimanimani mountains. During our trip to Zimbabwe, we spent our time in the Vumba Mountains, renowned for their extensive Afromontane forests. Almost all of the region’s forest specials can be seen here. For any birder visiting the area, staying at the legendary Seldomseen Cottages is a must. Nestled in a forested gorge, Seldomseen is a birder’s paradise, with numerous footpaths leading directly from the cottages. Many of the forest specials can be found within an hour’s walk.
Exploring Seldomseen’s Forest Trails in Vumba
As we drove up the pass leading out of Mutare, we felt the breeze grow colder and colder as it passed through our Land Rover. Leaving behind the city's bustle, we entered an entirely different world—an almost uninhabited landscape of towering miombo woodlands stretching for kilometers. Soon, the miombo gave way to thickets and then to dense Afromontane forests. About 20 kilometers from Mutare, we turned onto a brick-laid road, and I climbed out of the car to walk the final 100 meters.
The only sound was an aggressive, jittery chorus emanating from a dense shrub. That sounds familiar, I thought. Of course! It was the call of a group of Roberts’s Warblers, a sound I had memorized before the trip. As I managed to catch a few glimpses of them, a Stripe-cheeked Greenbul sang from the canopy—another quintessential Eastern Highlands special. That evening, we recorded several more forest species, including Orange-ground Thrush, Tambourine Dove, Livingstone’s Turaco, Chirinda Apalis, and White-tailed Crested Flycatcher—all within the immediate vicinity of our cottage!
At sunrise the next morning, we awoke to the trilling call of a group of enigmatic Red-faced Crimsonwings from our doorstep as we gazed over the forest and golden-lit grassland hills.
Miombo Woodland Birding in Zimbabwe
That morning, we met up with our bird guide, Buluwezi. Highly recommended by several birders, he has been guiding in the Vumba region for over 20 years. His passion for birds was immediately evident—he was just as excited as we were when we met him.
As we walked down the road, we were stunned by his ability to pick up even the faintest forest calls. “Did you hear that?” Buluwezi exclaimed as we reached the last cottage. He took us onto a forest trail, explaining that he had just heard a Swynnerton’s Robin—a stunning bird with an extremely restricted range, synonymous with the Vumba forests.
Buluwezi is an expert at tracking these elusive robins. The second time we heard its call, we were brimming with excitement. A flash of orange darted across the path. The bird then hopped into an opening, and suddenly, I was eye-to-eye with the robin. The bird I once thought I’d only see in field guides was now right in front of me. Despite the gloomy understorey, its fiery-orange plumage shone brightly. The robin made small, calculated jumps among the dragon trees, then slowly faded into the shadows and vanished. I turned to the group, our expressions reflecting sheer astonishment.
As the morning progressed, our list of species grew. In addition to the birds seen the previous day, we spotted Variable Sunbird, Green Twinspot, White-starred Robin, Barratt’s Warbler, Black-fronted Bushshrike (heard), and Livingstone’s Turaco.
Despite an already eventful morning, Buluwezi led us beyond the forest onto the open grassland slopes. “Singing Cisticola!” I called as a small bird flitted into a shrub. “Almost,” Buluwezi said, smiling. “That’s a Wailing Cisticola.” A moment later, I pointed at another cisticola. “Yes! That’s a Singing Cisticola,” he confirmed excitedly. Despite its name, the bird wasn’t much of a singer, emitting only short, single-note calls. However, its importance lies in its range—it is one of the ten must-see Eastern Highlands specials.
We climbed onto a dirt road passing a local bar and a small plantation of sugarbush trees. Here, Buluwezi pointed out a Halleria lucida tree, where he often found Bronze Sunbirds. As if on cue, a pair of Bronze Sunbirds appeared!
By the afternoon, we returned to the cottage, still marveling at the morning’s sightings. But there was no time to relax—at a place like Seldomseen, birding never stops.
“You can’t not bird here,” I told my brother as we descended the log steps onto a forest trail. The birding remained productive throughout the day. We captured more photos of our target birds and even had another encounter with a Swynnerton’s Robin. The stillness at dusk, combined with a keen eye for movement, proved crucial in locating it. In the non-breeding season, the robin makes little noise, blending seamlessly into the forest.
That evening, we sipped coffee, gazing over the landscape, listening to the mournful call of a Lemon Dove. We had ticked off eight of the ten quintessential Eastern Highlands specials in a single day—solidifying this as the greatest birding experience I had ever had.
Miombo Woodland Birding in Zimbabwe
The next morning, I woke up before my alarm. The excitement was too much to sleep through. The golden sun was rising behind the hills, and I wondered what new birds the day would bring.
Zimbabwe is renowned for its miombo woodlands, which thrive in sandy and rocky soils at lower elevations than the Afromontane forests. We had to descend the pass towards Mutare, roughly 10 kilometers, to reach them. The miombo around Zimbabwe’s fourth-largest city remains largely undisturbed, offering one of the best locations to find the woodland’s specialist species.
Our first sighting was a strikingly bright Cabanis’s Bunting, glowing golden in the morning sun. Its melodic song stirred the dawn chorus. As I raised my camera for a shot, Buluwezi suddenly called out, “Miombo Rock Thrush!” My heart raced. I could hear two birds singing, and I rushed toward him. I found only one visible, perched and singing—just like the bunting. Across the road, a fruiting tree attracted Whyte’s Barbet and Black-eared Seed-eater.
Buluwezi then led us deeper into the woods, where he played a brief playback. Moments later, a dull bird flitted toward us—it was an African Spotted Creeper, perfectly camouflaged against the bark. “This is prime miombo birding!” I thought.
But the highlight of the morning was still to come.
Buluwezi then led us deeper into the woods, where he played a brief playback. Moments later, a dull bird flitted toward us—it was an African Spotted Creeper, perfectly camouflaged against the bark. “This is prime miombo birding!” I thought.
But the highlight of the morning was still to come.
Just when I thought we had reached the peak of our morning’s birding, Buluwezi exclaimed, “Western Violet-backed Sunbird!” I could hardly believe it. A dark-purple sunbird with a unique ‘giss’ was sipping nectar from a bottlebrush. While we were astounded by a pair of these birds, Buluwezi explained that they were regular visitors to this tree. Soon, Eastern Miombo Sunbirds and Variable Sunbirds joined the mix, along with Miombo Tits and another lifer—Red-faced Crombec!
By 9 o’clock, we had seen all of the miombo specials… except for one.
Some might already guess that I am referring to the Cinnamon-breasted Tit. Luckily, Buluwezi had a plan. He led us to an older miombo patch, where we slowly made our way through the open understory, listening for bird parties. Soon, a call from a Golden-tailed Woodpecker rang out, followed by rasping calls from a Black-backed Puffback. I could feel we were getting close.
More birds appeared from the canopy, and soon there were two Miombo Tits. I played the call of the Rufous-bellied Tit (as it is similar to that of the Cinnamon-breasted), and soon we had a response. A black-and-grey bird moved nearer until it was clear—it was indeed a Cinnamon-breasted Tit! The bird appeared unobtrusive, sticking to denser foliage, especially the Uapaca tree. But it wasn’t skittish, and we had a few brief, close encounters.
This incredible sighting was followed by a drive up a rural pass, where Buluwezi fueled our excitement even more. A Blue-spotted Wood Dove at a vegetated stream gave unparalleled views of a singing male, although a Red-throated Twinspot was much more elusive and required more effort to find. Eventually, we laid our eyes on the dazzling red bird.
After 11 lifers in a single morning, Buluwezi had yet another Vumba special in store for us. We continued along the pass to an area with a moist, grassy understory and a few remaining miombo trees—perfect habitat for Yellow-bellied Waxbill. We played the bird’s call, but after a while, there was still no response. As I climbed back into the car, disappointed, I suddenly heard a soft, rounded “sweeeuut” call. It must be them, I thought. So we waited, and soon, a group of three joyful waxbills fluttered into view!
Afterwards, we headed straight for Tony’s Coffee Shop, indulging in artisan cakes and coffee while reflecting on our excellent morning with Buluwezi. After drinking ourselves sick on unlimited hot chocolate, we drove back, planning the rest of the day's birding and saying our heartfelt goodbyes to our phenomenal guide.
For the remainder of the day, we walked the many footpaths around the cottage's forest, ending up with an incredible three sightings of Swynnerton's Robin in a single day! In the last few hours before dusk, we visited the Vumba Botanical Gardens—a quiet and peaceful place. Just like at Seldomseen, we were the only birders there. In fact, we were the only people there at all.
Birding around the cultivated gardens was relatively slow, so we followed a track leading into the forest. Soon, a rustling of leaves in the dense understory caught our attention. We stopped and scanned carefully, finally locating the source of the movement—it was another Swynnerton’s Robin! This one proved to be slightly tamer than those at Seldomseen, offering more open views. We spent about 20 minutes with the bird, waiting for the perfect shot. Eventually, I reacted fast enough and managed to snap an acceptable photograph. What a way to end our time in Vumba.
Over and over again, the sheer volume of incredible birds we encountered in the Vumba Mountains reminded us of the importance of protecting these forests and miombo woodlands. The thriving population of Swynnerton's Robin in this area is a testament to the conservation of Afromontane forests, which also provide a habitat for many other restricted species.
Where to Stay for Birding in Zimbabwe
Lodges and organizations like Seldomseen, with the support of local communities, play a crucial role in securing the future of this region while creating opportunities for eco-tourism.
My time in Vumba was a transcendent experience—being enclosed in these forests and miombo woodlands left a deep, lasting impact on me. I experienced one of my most memorable birding moments here, and I see myself returning to these ethereal mountains soon, eager to explore further, reconnect with nature, and immerse myself in the region’s incredible birdlife once again.
Book your stay at Seldomseen either by visiting their website or emailing them on mhumhe@zol.co.zw
Experience Zimbabwe’s incredible birding firsthand. Join a guided tour with Birding Ecotours and search for specials like Swynnerton’s Robin and African Pitta! Book your Zimbabwe birding adventure here or email info@birdingecotours.com
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